The adapted traditional Ukrainian accessory, the "fartuk" or apron, also known as "perednyk" or "zapaska," is increasingly appearing in the collections of Ukrainian brands. Let's explore how designers propose to wear and style it.
The "fartuk" is a piece of fabric that was tied over a skirt or shirt. However, behind this ordinary item lies deep symbolism and a long history. The apron served as a kind of marker for events and changes, reflecting Ukrainian cultural heritage. In the past, when girls were just beginning married life, they wore only shirts. But upon reaching their first menstruation, they would put on an apron. This act signaled the transition from childhood to maidenhood. Aprons were distinguished between everyday and festive occasions. "Everyday" aprons were made from ordinary calico to protect clothing from dirt, while "festive" ones were adorned with embroidery, floral ribbons, and other decorative elements.
In each region, there were unique features. In the central Dnieper region, aprons were made from two pieces of solid-colored fabric of different widths, usually in black and blue. In Kyiv and the Left Bank, brocade with gold and silver threads was used. Podilian aprons were distinguished by special embroidery or woven ornament, filling them entirely. In Western Ukraine, crosswise or vertical stripes were popular, often with the addition of gold or silver thread.
People believed in their magical power and protective function against dirt, cold, the evil eye, and negative energy. Because the apron covered the abdomen, it was attributed special significance among women. Pregnant women wore it as an amulet. During childbirth, it was used for receiving the newborn.
In contemporary times, aprons have a different role, mainly associated with culinary activities. However, modern Ukrainian designers propose to reconsider this element of the Ukrainian costume, as it is an important component of our cultural heritage and traditions.
A beaded and cotton apron adorned with cut-out embroidery, designed by GUNIA Project, is suggested to be paired with minimalist outfits. It can be worn over straight trousers, culottes, or Bermuda shorts.
An apron from the "Memories" collection by the EmbroideredGem brand draws inspiration from festive family photographs of Ukrainians from the early 20th century. Designer Natalya Kirichenko suggests both traditional combinations, worn over a long voluminous dress or skirt, and a more relaxed option, paired with a vest over a sheer bodysuit and trousers.
Hanna Shash, the founder of the W8LESS brand, states, "Fashion is relentless, just like our love for eco-leather and black color." This season, she suggests creating a stylish and comfortable look using monochromatic tones and eye-catching details, such as an apron made of eco-leather.
The brand KARPOVA suggests one of the most provocative ways to wear an apron: over mini shorts with an exposed back.
Aprons made from cotton, raffia, and even vinyl, adorned with lace and fringe, are part of the collection by the brand shypelyk. The brand eschews boundaries and conventions, encouraging individuals to experiment with wearing the apron in various ways—over a dress, an elongated shirt, or paired with a skirt or jeans.
